Proper shaving has become a lost art. Today, men have forgotten about the fine art of the traditional wet shave that their grandfathers and some of their fathers used to take part in. Instead, they’re only accustomed to the cheap and disposable shaving products that companies market. The tradition of passing down the secrets of a clean shave abruptly stopped at some point, but this male ritual is making a comeback. Wet shaving is all about the tools used, and there are just a few you need to get started.
For a great, close wet shave, you will need (well, without the chainsaw)
A shaving brush
A safety razor
A straight razor (not necessarily for new wet shavers)
Shaving cream or soap
Shaving oil (optional, but recommended)
A non-alcohol based after shave lotion or balm
A mug or bowl to make lather in (you can use the cup of your hand as well)
Great! Now, where to we start? Like any good book, at the beginning.
AltesseShavingBrush
A good shaving brush is the key to a proper wet shave, and the best brushes are made from badger hair (see The Shaving Brush). It’s smooth on the face and retains water better than any other material. There are four levels of badger hair brushes; pure, best, super, and silvertip. Pure badger hair is badger hair that generally comes from the underbelly. These are the baseline quality of brushes. Above this are ‘best’ badger hair brushes, which use more fine and pliable hairs from the badger’s body. Even more high quality are the ‘super’ brushes, using the best, most highly graded hairs from all over the body. The deluxe in badger hair is silvertip it is very rare naturally white hair on the badger which holds water best. However, as the brushes ascend in quality, they also grow in price, and silvertip brushes can run easily into the hundreds of dollars. Personally I use a silvertip brush, primarily for its’ durability and capacity for holding enough water to make a great lather. Many ‘best’ and ‘super’ brushes offer similar durability and water holding capacity, so silvertip brushes are not the only option. Go with silvertip, if you can find a good deal or you simply want the absolute best shaving brush.
Safety Razor
Next you’ll want a double-edge (or DE) safety razor. There are several razor brands that I like. First is Merkur. Merkur is a German company that continues to make quality DE razors and blades to this day. Second on my list is Dreadnought. Dreadnought makes a great DE safety razor and a straight-edge ‘cut-throat’ razor. Merkur safety razors utilize safety combs where the Dreadnought razors use a straight-edge blade cover. I’ll write another article covering the differences in detail, but I find the safety combs are better for getting a close shave with longer stubble. Merkur and Dreadnought also makes great blades, but you can find blades from a variety of companies as well. Blade selection is another topic that will take some time to dig into. Who knew that safety razor blades were so different?
Straight Razor
Now, as an upgrade to shaving (not necessarily for beginners to this wonderful world), you can move to straight-edge razors. These are single-edge blades that either need to be kept sharp on a leather strop or you can opt for the shavettes, which hold a disposable single-edge blade (no sharpening required). I would recommend moving up to this type of razor after you are comfortable with wet shaving and the safety razor.
Shaving Mug
Next, you will need a shaving mug or bowl that you can build your lather up in. Many shaving mugs and bowls have ridges toward the bottom which can help build later, but it not really necessary. With shaving creams (discussed below) you can build the lather in the palm of your hand. It tends to be a bit messy, so I almost always use a mug, but building your lather in your palm is a great option when travelling, especially if you can find a great travel shave brush and creams.
Shaving Cream
Shaving Soap
For your shaving lather, there are also two popular options. The first is a shaving cream. This is usually from a tube or tub, not the stuff that comes from a can (we are upgrading our shaving,
remember). Put a dime to quarter-sized dab of shaving cream in your palm, mug, or bowl and lather it up with your brush. The second is a shaving soap. These are usually in the shape of a hockey puck, which fits nicely in most shaving mugs or shaving bowls. There are also shaving soap bars, which sit on a tray and allows you to create a lather in your hand. Shaving creams are usually limited to fragrance options. Shaving soaps, on the other hand, have so many options, it can make your head spin. Lavender is a popular fragrance and is coupled with something a little more masculine, like Sandalwood or Cedarwood fragrance. Coconut and lime is another good option. And finally, there is the old fashioned fragrance of barbershops and bay rum. Shaving pucks can last 4-6 months, depending on how frequently you shave and the amount of lather.
Pre Shave OilOne item that many men overlook is a good pre-shave oil. Pre-shave oil helps to condition your skin, beard, and stubble for a close shave. Pre-shave oils are typically based on olive oil, grapeseed oil, avocado and almond oils along with varying fragrances or combinations. These oils help condition your skin, soften your beard and stubble while it provides gliding lubrication for your razor of choice. Personally, I notice a huge difference between using pre-shave oil and not, so applying the oil is part of my shaving routine.
After you are finished with your shave and splashed cold water on your face to close the pores, you need to look into after shave lotions and balms to complete your shave experience. There are many after shaves available as well. You will want alcohol-free after shaves with either no fragrance or with one you won’t mind hanging around your nose. The fragrances will typically follow those available in your shaving soaps. You want these alcohol-free, otherwise your cleanly shaven face will burn from the alcohol, which tends to kill your wonderful shaving experience. You will see that some contain witch hazel, which has some alcohol level, but this is good, since it helps to close minor nicks and cuts. For larger nicks and cuts, you would use an alum block or stick.
That should about cover it. Put everything together and you’ll have yourself quite the shave (once you learn how that is). While wet shaving can have a high start up cost, it’s actually cheaper in the long run; your creams and after shaves will last a long time, and the blades are significantly cheaper. So get out there, get what you need, and shave.